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W E L C O M E T O
T O R T I L L A B A Y . C O M
T
H E W E B S I T E O F
A L B E R T O
V A Z Q U E Z A N D C R A I G
A Y L I F F E
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A V I S I T F R O M P H I L I P |
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Big Sur 2006 |
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B I G
S U R
M O N D A Y
D E C E M B E R 1 1
We were happy to
find that our new friend and landlord Mañuelito
decided to join us for car trip to the north even if it was only
for 4 days. We would drop him at SFO on Friday morning for a
flight back to Los Angeles.
As we mentioned, Philip had not
made any plans about California other than to visit with
friends, stay with us and see a bit of Northern California.
Northern
California is highly diverse, but can be generally characterized
by its beautiful coastline, redwood forests, Mediterranean to
warm temperate climate, and low population density (apart from
the San Francisco Bay Area, Fresno, and Sacramento areas, if
those are being included). It is also a land of wine country,
high mountains (the Sierra Nevada, the southern Cascade Range,
Trinity Alps, and the Klamath Mountains), lakes, and windswept
sagebrush steppe, in the northeast portion of the state. The
coast is generally a wild and pristine rocky shoreline populated
by seals, sea lions and surfers.
We planned a short trip to hit the highlights - Big Sur,
Mendocino, Calistoga and Napa then Bolinas to visit friends.
After we dropped Mañuelito at the airport, Philip would go to
San Mateo to visit his brother Kim for two nights and Alberto
and I would go to Santa Cruz and wait for Philip to join us for
the return home.
Our first stop
was Big Sur, a
thinly-settled region of the central California coast where the
Santa Lucia Mountains rise abruptly from the Pacific Ocean. This
geology produces stunning views and has become a magnet for
global tourism much to the local residents dismay. Big Sur's
Cone Peak is the highest coastal mountain in the lower 48
states, ascending nearly a mile (5,155 feet/1.6km) above sea
level, only 3 miles (4.8 km) from the ocean.[1] Although Big Sur
has no specific boundaries, most definitions of the area include
the 90 miles (145km) of coastline between the Carmel River and
San Carpoforo Creek, and extend about 20 miles (32km) inland to
the eastern foothills of the Santa Lucias. The northern end of
Big Sur is about 120 miles (193km) south of San Francisco, and
the southern end is approximately 245 miles (394km) north of Los
Angeles.
It is
exceptionally beautiful. We shared a room at the lodge, ate
dinner at The Big Sur Inn and caught the late afternoon sun at the
remote and isolated Pfeiffer Beach. Even though it's hard to
find, Pfeiffer Beach is one of the most photographed beaches in
the world. It is the principal scene of a Hollywood classic, The
Sandpipers, with Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton.
We finished the
day with late night cocktails at
The Nepenthe in front of a roaring fire.

Kelp on the beach
Big Sur 2006 |
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Ground Big
Sur 2006 |
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Our lodging in Big Sur
, Fernwood Court 2006 |
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Mañuelito,
Philip and Craig in Big Sur 2006 |
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Pacific
Coast Highway One Big Sur |
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Mañuelito Big Sur
2006 |
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Alberto, Philip, Craig
and Mañuelito Pfeiffer Beach, Big Sur 2006

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Five Friends
Big Sur 2006
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Craig
Big Sur River 2006

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M O N T E R E Y
B A Y P E N I N S U L A
T U E S D A Y
D E C E M B E R 1 2
P E B B L E
B E A C H
M O N T E R E Y
M O N T E R E Y
B A Y A Q U A R I U M
We drove out of Big Sur and into the Monterey
Peninsula. The Monterey Peninsula comprises the
cities of Monterey, Carmel, Pacific Grove, and
the private community of Pebble Beach.
Philip gave us a little treat by side-tripping
into Pebble Beach and the famous 17 mile drive.
Pebble Beach is a small private coastal
unincorporated community in Monterey County,
California. Technically, Pebble Beach is not a
city at all, but a rather a corporation owned by
the Pebble Beach Company and managed as a small
town.
The 17-Mile Drive is a scenic road through
Pacific Grove and Pebble Beach, California,
United States, much of which hugs the Pacific
coastline and passes famous golf courses and
mansions. It also serves as the main road
through the gated community of Pebble Beach.
Like the community, the 17-Mile Drive is owned
and operated by the Pebble Beach Corporation.
The road runs adjacent to beaches and up into
the coastal hills, providing scenic viewpoints.
Travel along 17-Mile Drive takes as long as the
traveler likes. There are numerous turnouts
along the road to stop, take pictures, or get
out and stroll along the ocean or among the
trees. Each visitor receives a small map that
points out some of the more scenic spots.
Chief among these is the Lone Cypress Tree, the
official symbol of Pebble Beach and a frequent
fixture of television broadcasts from this area.
From there we headed straight for Monterey and
the Monterey Bay Aquarium.
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Pebble
Beach 2006 |
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Pebble
Beach 2006 |
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Lone Cypress
Pebble Beach 2006

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M O N T E R E Y
The City of Monterey is located on Monterey Bay
along the Pacific coast in central California.
As of 2005, the city population was 30,641. The
city is noted for its rich history of resident
artists beginning in the late 1800s and its
historically famed fishery. Monterey is home to
the Naval Postgraduate School the Defense
Language Institute, former Fort Ord, which is
now the site of California State University
Monterey Bay; Fleet Numerical Oceanography
Center, the Monterey Bay Aquarium, the Monterey
American Viticultural Area; Cannery Row,
Fisherman's Wharf and a Marine Mammal Center
field station located in the area. It is from
Monterey that the semi-hard cheese known as
Monterey Jack originated.
The city of Monterey was founded in 1777 and
marked the beginning of settlement in Central
California. The city became the capital of
Spanish and later Mexican California.
In the late 19th century the fishing industry
became the area's most profitable and important
economic sector. Started by mostly Italian
immigrants in Monterey and Chinese immigrants in
Pacific Grove, the fishing industry flourished.
By the 1930's Canneries lined the northern shore
of the Peninsula. These Canneries were the set
for the novels: Cannery Row and Sweet Thursday
by famed local author John Steinbeck. By the
early 1940's, however, the fishing industry was
dealt a devastating blow when the heavily
over-fished waters did not yield the amounts of
fish needed to keep the canneries in the green.
The end of big business fishing on the Monterey
County was the beginning of several conservation
efforts which eventually lead to the creation of
the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary.
Today, tourism is serves as the Peninsula's main
industry. Tourism started on the Peninsula with
a religious vacation settlement by Protestants
from San Francisco. This settlement was also the
beginning of the town of Pacific Grove. Today
once smelly Cannery Row is a tourist center
lined with boutiques, restaurants, and hotels.
Monterey Bay is a roughly semicircular bay
ringed by a segment of California State Route 1
which connects Santa Cruz at the north end to
Monterey, at the south end. Monterey Bay is home
to many species of marine mammals, including sea
otters, harbor seals, and bottlenose dolphins;
as well as being on the migratory path of Gray
and Humpback Whales and a breeding site for
elephant seals. Many species of fish, mollusks
such as abalone and squid, birds, and sea
turtles also live in the bay. Several varieties
of kelp grow in the bay, some becoming as tall
as small trees, forming what is known as a kelp
forest.
The Monterey Canyon, one of the largest
underwater canyons in the world, begins off the
coast of Moss Landing, exactly in the center of
Monterey Bay. In 1992 the Monterey Bay National
Marine Sanctuary was created, protecting over
4,000 square nautical miles (14,000 km²) of the
bay and surrounding ocean.
M O N T E R E Y
B A Y A Q U A R I U M
The Monterey Bay Aquarium, which is located in a
former sardine cannery and a former brewery on
Cannery Row in Monterey, California, is one of
the largest and most respected aquariums in the
world. It has an annual attendance of 1.8
million and holds 35,000 plants and animals
representing 623 species.
Among the aquarium's numerous exhibits, two are
of particular note. The centerpiece of the near
shore wing is a 33-foot (10-m) high tank for
viewing California coastal marine life. This
tank was the first in the world to simulate
tidal currents on a large scale, enabling the
aquarium to keep live California Giant Kelp
(water movement is a necessary precondition for
keeping Giant Kelp, which absorbs nutrients from
surrounding water and requires turbidity). The
second exhibit of note is a one million gallon
tank in the Outer Bay Wing which features the
world's largest single paned window (crafted by
a Japanese company, the window is actually 4
panes seamlessly glued together through a
proprietary process).
Sea life on exhibit includes stingrays,
jellyfish, sea otters, and numerous other native
marine species, which can be viewed above and
below the waterline.
In my opinion, there is a third exhibit to be
noted. The Jellyfish rooms. For displaying
jellyfish, the MBA uses a circular aquarium
called a Kreisel Tank. The room is kept dark and
the entry is marked by an astonishing circular
entry, the ceiling overhead is a transparent
donut of madly swimming schools of silvery
sardines. The jellyfish tanks are luminous and
serene.
Visitors are also able to inspect the creatures
of the kelp forest at several levels in the
building. Beginning in September 2004, the Outer
Bay exhibit was the home to the first Great
White Shark ever successfully kept on exhibit.
The aquarium is also home to Seafood Watch,
which publishes consumer guides for responsible
seafood purchasing. (And don't eat farmed
salmon. Farmed catfish and trout yes. Salmon no.
ugh.)
One of the greatest exhibits are the sea otters.
Hunted extensively for their luxurious fur—the
densest of all mammals with up to 394,000 hairs
per square centimeter— from 1741 onwards, sea
otter populations were greatly reduced to the
point of extermination in many parts of their
historic range. By 1911 the world population was
estimated to be just 1,000-2,000 individuals.
Although several subspecies are still
endangered, the otters have since been legally
protected, and reintroduction efforts have shown
positive results.
Sea otters are insanely playful and feeding time
is especially entertaining. Only otters that
have been injured and are recovering or have
"socialization" issues are kept at the aquarium.

Sea Otters |
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Jellyfish Room Monterey
Bay Aquarium 2006 |
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Philip Monterey
Bay Aquarium 2006
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The Sardine Ceiling Monterey Bay Aquarium
2006
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Jellies Monterey
Bay Aquarium 2006 |
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Sea Otter Monterey Bay
Aquarium 2006 |
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M E N D O C
I N O
T U E S D A Y D E C E M B E R
1 2
Despite its small
size, Mendocino's scenic location on a headland
surrounded by the Pacific Ocean has made it
extremely popular as an artist colony and with
vacationers. It is approximately a four-hour
drive from the San Francisco Bay Area and thus
is a popular weekend getaway spot for Bay Area
residents.
For us, it was a
six or seven hour car trip to Mendocino so we
arrived after dark, around 8 and went directly
to the village center to The Mendocino Cafe to
eat. Probably the best clam chowder we have ever
tasted. We then headed to out hotel room, a
suite with 3 beds and a fireplace, garden/ocean
view ($103 wow). The hotel is called Hill House
of Cabot Cove and is charming. So charming in
fact, for 12 television seasons of Murder She
Wrote, with Angela Lansbury, Hill House was used
as the main characters B&B /home and Mendocino (
aka Cabot Cove) as the backdrop to the
show's Agatha Cristie-style murderous
little village.
Many movies have been filmed in and around
Mendocino and Mendocino County, including The
Russians Are Coming the Russians Are Coming,
Overboard (actually filmed in Fort Bragg),
Karate Kid III, Dying Young, Forever Young,
Pontiac Moon and The Majestic (also partially
filmed in Fort Bragg).
While scenes for Murder, She Wrote were being
filmed in Mendocino, residents say that it was
not uncommon to see Angela Lansbury, who played
Jessica Fletcher, stop to speak with a toddler,
or for Tom Bosley to sign his autograph on a
Glad Bag box presented by a shopper stepping out
of the local grocery store (heh heh.)
After breakfast,
we spent the morning wandering through the art
galleries, making friends at the local coffee
house/bakery and then left for a 3 hour journey
to Napa Valley via a 68 mile winding road
through ancient redwood groves and open
pastureland and rivers.

Mendocino |
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Mañuelito 2006 |
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Chair Mendocino
2006 |
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Mendocino 2006 |
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Making
new friends in Mendocino 2006 |
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Mañuelito in
Mendocino 2006 |
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Mañuelito
Mendocino 2006
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Mendocino Forest 2006 |
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Redwood
Grove Mendocino 2006

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Redwood
Grove Mendocino 2006

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- c o n t i n u e w i t h u s t o
p a g e t w o o f N o r
t h e r n C a l i f o r n i a -
c l i c k
h e r e
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Philip in the mud
baths Calistoga 2006
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